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Town Talk
Dining Out with Ann: All Thai'd Up Over Sushi? You Needn't Be, Teikoku Can Unravel the Mystery!
By Ann Augunas
Posted on Wednesday January 7th, 2004
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If you, like most Americans, tend to quiver at the thought of eating Sushi, you can actually wet your feet and give
it a try without taking too great a plunge into the unknown or having to take a slow boat to the Orient where it all
began. A short drive to Newtown Square will do it.
Remember Bobby's Seafood Restaurant on West Chester Pike? Long gone. In its place, after a complete and luscious
metamorphosis from the previous, is an elegantly simple structure that bespeaks the serenity of the Asian mystique,
even from the outside. Its name is Teikoku and it is the stunning concept of owners Win and Sutida Somboonsong,
both natives of Thailand and owners of the popular Thai Pepper Restaurants (2) and Mikado.
The exterior of Teikoku (Tie ko koo), quite simple and graceful in its architectural design, entices us into an
equally elegant interior where a small entry with temple-like trappings, sets the tone for what follows in the handsome
5,500 sq. ft. restaurant.
Initially, the faint tinkle of Japanese rain chains provides a sense of calm as water, slipping down through a
succession of copper cups makes its way to a small garden below. It's a lovely beginning and the rest is as delightful
as no expense has been spared to provide a sense of serenity and authenticity for guests of the restaurant.
The main dining room is topped by a 15-foot high exposure of roof. It's both spacious and comfortable with the look
and feel of an outdoor courtyard. Smaller copper roofs supported by wood posts are positioned above tables around the
sides of the room. Bamboo wall coverings, shades, exotic greenery, a stone garden, a large bar in the center and a
sushi preparation area to the back, provide the rest of the décor in this room.
The whole of the restaurant is a harmonious melding of the Chinese principles of Feng Shui (fung schway) and Japanese
Zen. Simplicity reigns while giving honor to both the Japanese and Thai aesthetic, as in the smaller Tatami Room with
its low-to-the-floor tables and moon-shaped windows with rice paper, and the Thai Silk Room which features silk
lanterns, plantation fans and contemporary furnishings. Magnificent mahogany wood is used throughout the interior.
Teikoku's menu features three styles of cooking, Japanese, Thai and Japanese Sushi. Typically, sushi is vinegared
rice to which something else is added on top or rolled up inside. Another prime ingredient, Nori, which comes from
seaweed, is often wrapped around the rice. Other accompaniments are wasabi, best when grated from the fresh root,
and pickled ginger, authentically used by Japanese as a palate cleanser between bites and not put on top as
Westerners tend to do.
And therein lies the rub. It's what's put on top that makes many Americans flinch. Not having been brought up
eating raw fish we tend to assume it's not good for us, therefore, we won't even give it a try. Facts, however,
show the times are changing. It seems every fine Chinese dining establishment, for instance, is adding or has added,
a sushi bar. The fact they are proliferating and are always busy show the trend is toward acceptance.
I'd like to recommend that if you haven't ever tried sushi Teikoku is the perfect place to do so. Firstly, not all
sushi is raw. We started out and stayed with Ebi (cooked shrimp over rice) and Kani (cooked crab over rice),
cooked eel (can't believe we ventured that far), California Rolls and various others, for a long time.
We also enjoyed Tempura's and Teriyaki's, all of these giving us an easy introduction to Japanese food.
For the experts out there it's a whole other culinary adventure. For the timid it's a great way to begin.
You'll find delightful things on the menu at Teikoku. Avocado, Tofu or House salads; steamed shrimp; Yakitori,
broiled chicken on skewers; Beef Negimaki on skewers; Philly Roll, cream cheese and smoked salmon; Boston roll,
lettuce and cooked shrimp; vegetable rolls and a multitude of others. Sushi or sashimi (always raw) will be to
your own discretion and the expert chefs are pleased to guide you.
If you still tend to be uncertain don't miss out on the pleasure of dining at Teikoku because the Thai menu is
also exceptional. Favorites such as spring rolls, dumplings, duck, scallops, lovely salads, fabulous entrees
such as Pad Thai - a combo of rice noodles with shrimp and a lovely sauce accent - seafood, soft shell crabs,
fried rice of all sorts, and one of my favorites, the delightful Golden Bag. This tasty morsel should not be missed.
Marinated duck, shitake mushrooms and mixed veggies are wrapped in rice paper, lightly fried and served with a
delicate plum sauce. Truly delightful! It's also noteworthy that prices at Teikoku are quite reasonable ranging
from $5 to $24.
In a short space of time, Teikoku has attracted a loyal following. Personally we've found consistency a hallmark.
We've had a delicious and authentic dining experience at each visit. We've found the service to be always friendly
and attentive. Chefs who are expert in the preparation and presentation of each item on the menu, produce dishes
that resemble works of art which adds to our enjoyment. We also like the idea of being able to choose from a
variety of fine sakes, which we enjoy, to compliment our meals. General Manager Umer Naim, an alum of Stephen
Starr's Morimoto in Philadelphia, has compiled a list of ten sakes from which to choose along with selections of
fine wines that will pair well with the food.
Should you decide to try Teikoku for yourself you'll find it located at 5492 West Chester Pike in Newtown Square.
Hours are: Lunch, Mon. - Sat. from 11:30 to 2:30. Dinner, Mon. - Thurs. from 5 to 10; Fri. and Sat. 5 to 10:30;
Sun. from 4 to 9:30 p.m. Private parties or banquets are also available. For reservations call 610-644-8270.
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By Ann Augunas
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